Show this post to your boyfriend. How to wear a suit “How to Make a Man”
- Yes, sir. Please, a little higher pants, sir, a quarter of an inch. In the gap between the shoe and the cuff, a sock should flash with careless elegance. This subtlety is extremely important.
“There are moments in life, Jeeves, when a person asks himself the question:“ Are trousers worth such attention? ”
- This mood will pass, sir.
The original idea of this blog was to write about the masculine style, dodging the pitfalls in the form of obvious and hackneyed topics. And nevertheless, a couple of software texts forces me to write an objective reality. The appearance of today's material is due to two reasons:
- The myth that "costumes must be able to wear." Yes, of course, style is not only clothes, but also self- / world perception, but this fact does not justify those who say “costumes do not suit me”. To make the costume look good, and the “magic” started to work, it’s enough to follow a number of basic landing rules, which are described below.
- Unconscious delusions and total heresy, which are full of such articles on the Internet, written as a blueprint. Some of the information that goes into them is hopelessly outdated, the other is initially incorrect. I would like to make a material that is relevant today, but at the same time “timeless” in essence.
So, the basic details of a suit are three, as usual - a shirt, trousers and a jacket (about accessories are not today). Let's go in order.
The shirt is a second skin . The only freedoms that should be in it are those without which you cannot move / breathe (armhole sleeves, collar, slight waist allowance). “Sails” sticking out of trousers and fluttering in the wind are not needed. The seam of grinding of the shoulder and the sleeve should ideally be located on the extreme upper bone of the shoulder (at the time of writing the post I learned that it is called “acromion” and is not the edge of the clavicle, as I thought earlier).
Sleeve length is rather a matter of taste and luck. In my opinion, in a modern suit, in a free state, it should reach exactly to the conjugation of the forearm and hand (if you look at the inside of the hand, this is a “fold” of skin at its base), and retrogrades will probably add another 1-2 centimeters in length. Sleeves shorter than the border of the brush should not be chosen, especially if the shirt is worn under a jacket (I will explain later why).
The collar should fasten on the top button, not constraining breathing , but if this is not possible (provided that the rest of the shirt sits perfectly) - just wear it with the collar undone, and putting on a tie, "tighten" the collar with it, not fastening the buttons . This is a half measure, but better than a shirt that is 2-4 sizes larger than necessary.
And most importantly (along with shoulders), on which almost everything is punctured - landing at the waist. The shirt is not an informal shirt that can be worn! This is an object that repeats your figure, so the critical maximum of freedom that you can see when tucking it into pants / jeans is the third picture (although I strongly recommend sticking to the first and second ones). Despite the terrible drainage, this illustration well conveys the essence:
In general, if you buy a slim shirt or even a regular fit, you are unlikely to encounter this problem, but just in case, the armhole of the sleeves (this is the place where the body and the sleeves join the arm) must also ensure freedom of movement , and no tissue volumes should not be there.
In the 44th it was, ahem, a little different.
Pants are specific to different types of shapes and style . For example, my tongue doesn’t turn around to condemn someone’s choice of waist height - one can easily go to the navel trousers (I’m not kidding, it can work, especially if the wearer knows and likes to wear vintage clothes) waist, but there are still universal rules that will help in the selection.
Rule number 1: landing on the waist . In order to understand how certain trousers are worn at all (high, normal, low waist), you need to wear them so that in the crotch zone (sorry, but tailors are people who do not know shame) there remains a minimum (but, again space, which does not hamper comfort and movement) (I’ll make a reservation that this is not about trousers Vivienne westwood and other extravagant fashion brands). Only then will you see the waist line and be able to conclude whether your size is in trousers or not. There is nothing worse than the pants with a medium / high waist, which "perfectly" sit with a man on his hips, leaving a monstrous freedom in the groin area.
If you like the whole fit, but the waist is several centimeters wider or at the desired one - just buy and give the pants to the master for a waist fit. You can, for example, to me . ☺
Rule number 2: the length of the pants . If you have already understood exactly how trousers should fit properly at the waist (and make sure that they are still sitting) - look at the length (in that order, not vice versa!). One of the terrible things that are written in almost all the “guides” is that the trousers must form the mythical “one room on a shoe”. Nowadays, this strange wording misleads many newbies and makes them buy dramatically long pants, so I would advise you to listen to Jeep’s phrase from the epigraph (“in the gap between the shoe and the cuff should flicker with casual elegance”). Too short pants in a business or semi-business style will be extravagant, but let's finally say goodbye to the unkind Soviet tradition of “the more fabric the better”. Remove the pile, hand in the pants to the master at the hemming (I will not say to whom ) and happily wear a piece of clothing that fits your size. In short - the length of the pants should slightly cover the bone on the ankle . No more.
Planting a jacket is more difficult than it seems at first glance. Despite the fact that this is one of the most constructively complex pieces of clothing in the world and its landing has a lot of subtleties, let's start with the bases. The main point is the fit of the shoulders. The edge of the jacket shoulder = the edge of your shoulder! Remember this once and for all. Even in the most loose fit, the shoulder line should not go further than your own shoulder. So, almost like a shirt, the upper bone of the shoulder is the beginning of your jacket sleeve. The maximum distance from this point is 1 cm. Most of the remaining defects can be corrected by the master, but the shoulders are not subject to adjustment. So take your choice with all the attention.
Simple and clear picture
Further, continuing the discussion of the upper half, - the armhole, the better the jacket . Let me remind you once again: the armhole is a place for stitching the sleeves in the “torso” of the jacket. Of course, the phrase about the "best" jacket is exaggerated, but true in 90% of cases. Firstly, a wide armhole is less aesthetic, secondly, it provides inconvenience when moving and raising hands, and thirdly, a wide armhole is an unequivocal indicator of the factory manufacture of a jacket (guaranteed to the manufacturer that any buyer will fit into it). Therefore, make sure that the freedom in the armhole was, if not minimal, then at least moderate.
Jacket length - a debatable question. Again, the first thing I want to do is dispelling myths. The most delusional replicated postulate - the free-hanging hand should grasp the edge of the shelf (the front of the jacket), which means the length is correct . All people's hands are suddenly different, and if she grabs hold of you, it still doesn’t say anything. With one, this rule works, with others it does not, it cannot be called universal in any way.
More sane, but for my taste a little outdated cliche - the back of the jacket should completely cover the buttocks . Ok, it can roll on the condition that the rest of the landing looks perfect. But usually in the situation of choosing the first / second / single costume it is not so, which means that it will become another “plus” in the piggy bank of features that turn your figure into something like a bag of potatoes. My personal “rule”, which has never failed, sounds like this - in a modern suit the back of a jacket should slightly cover the protruding point of the buttocks (to be more straightforward - the middle of the priests). This minimum is quite enough to not look ridiculous, "fashionable", but at the same time emphasize the shape and lightness. This length is preferable for medium and low waist trousers, in the case of high, it is better to stay on the retrograde "completely cover the buttocks." The picture above is an example of a good modern jacket length.
Next - the question of the waist . I recommend wearing a jacket buttoned in those cases, if the reverse is not necessary. So, when fastening the top button, the jacket should take the shape of your body. Of course, this is what happens with ideal costumes in an ideal world, but in our case, let's agree on at least one (let me repeat the cliche, this time perfectly adequate) - between the shirt and buttoned jacket of the maximum freedom - the size of one apple or fist. Anything more is already overkill. If the jacket "tightens" and hampers movement when buttoning it, it should also be neglected.
Landing at the waist of a smoker / Landing at the waist of a healthy person (but the sleeves are no good at all)
Your jacket sleeves are longer than necessary . Perhaps you think that a jacket should cover your shirt. Perhaps you just did not think about this issue. In any case, the sleeves of a jacket should be shorter than a shirt by 1-3 centimeters . If you do not see the sleeve of the shirt from under your jacket, immediately go to the master and reduce the sleeve of the jacket (or change the shirt). A good guide for the correct length of the sleeve of the jacket is the bone on the outside of the forearm, which passes into the hand. From it to the brush just about a couple of centimeters. Shirts with a French cuff (under the cuff link) should look even stronger - by 2-4 cm or, for simpler orientation, before the edge / center of the cuff link is visible.
The right sleeves, the right shoulders, the right armhole.
One more thing - please do not wear a jacket with three buttons ("2.5 buttons", where one button is on the edge of the lapel, does not count). Just put it on the mezzanine. If you are not a connoisseur of vintage fashion and you are under 45, everyone will think that you inherited it from dad or grandfather. The fact that the bottom button of a jacket never be stays is what you hopefully know without me. If not, remember forever and bring it to automatism.
Slots, lapels, buttonholes and other details are more a conversation about style than about landing, so for now we will not touch them.
If you remember these simple and quite intuitive basics, you (or your boyfriend) will become cooler than Colin Firth.
Well, ok, you won't, but at least get a little closer.
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Thanks for reading, stay classy!